Perhentian Islands, Malaysia

Waking up in the oldest rainforest in the world knowing that you will be arriving at one of Earth’s most beautiful islands later that day, is a feeling that you don’t get too often.

Our schedule was packed, as always, so we couldn’t relish this feeling for too long. Today we were heading to the Perhentian Islands, 2 islands located just off the East coast of Malaysia, that are enjoyed by foreigners and Malaysians alike.

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Perhentians

We met at Dawar Restaurant, one of many floating restaurants in Taman Negara, which is Han Travels meeting point. Everyone hopped in a mini bus that took us to Escape Hotel, a small way out of town. Here we met several other groups and swapped onto a coach, which was comfortable and spacious.

We trundled for a few hours taking in some beautiful rainforest scenery before arriving in Gua Musang, where were we stopped for lunch. We had packed our own but everyone else bought local and the prices seemed fair. Han Travel have an office here so people bought their boat tickets that would enable them to get to the islands from the mainland.

The next stop is Gerantut where the coach becomes several mini vans once again. As we have only one small bag each, compared to some travellers with huge rucksacks and some families with several suitcases, we became the moveable pieces of the jigsaw in the staffs attempt at getting everyone in their vans with their own luggage. Once we boarded our 3rd minivan we were getting a little frustrated but finally it all worked, though we ended up very cramped for the 3 hour journey ahead.

We headed for Kuala Besut, the coastal town that links the mainland to the Perhentians. After 2 or 3 stops at petrol stations on the way, we eventually arrived around 5pm, even though the driver advised us we would be there for 4pm. No surprise there! Everybody boarded their respective boats (one for each island) and jetted off for nice, breezy 20 minute cruise to paradise.

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We were dropped at the pier on Perhentian Kecil and headed across the beach towards our hotel, which fortunately for us was Senja Bay, and you can’t miss it as you approach Kecil’s infamous Coral Bay.

Immediately we were both amazed about how beautiful this place is. We checked into our room, which was directly on the beach! The room was comfy but basic, perfect for this setting. We threw our stuff down and slipped into our swimming gear in haste, the shimmering water was just irresistible.

This was taken from our porch

It was around 6pm at this point, but there were still a few people in the sea and plenty on the beach. A nice atmosphere, but not overcrowded. The sea was very warm and equally refreshing. The coral can stab you in the foot from time to time, as a friendly reminder that you shouldn’t be standing on it. The coral is welcome though, because it brings fish aplenty.

It didn’t take us long to decide that we needed to extend our stay here from 2 days to 4. Kota Bharu on the mainland would have to wait until our next visit to Malaysia, we were content in the Perhentians!

We then headed back to the room to get showered ready for dinner. We ate at Senja’s restaurant that night, a BBQ meal on the beach. A lightning storm kicked up a few miles offshore and we got to see nature’s finest fireworks while fine dining. They also had no issue with me bringing my own beers to have with the meal.

As Senja does not sell alcohol (Muslim owned) we moved 50 yards down the beach to the Gem Internet Café. It is a popular jaunt as it is the only place on Coral Bay where you can buy booze. We met an English couple here and chatted with them and the lovely owners of the café until the early hours of the morning.

Gemma was up before me and ended up sitting on the beach for a couple of hours as the rest of Perhentian Kecil began to stir. We walked the leisurely 20 yards to breakfast, which is usually 20RM per person. Cooked “English” breakfast is available, along with fruits and pancakes.
Today was our scheduled snorkelling trip. We planned to do the touristy thing of going on a day trip to aid us in getting our bearings, then we were going to head off on our own aqua adventures. We got to our meeting point at 10:30am and joined our 8 man crew.

The route has 6 stops and the first is aptly named Shark Bay. We didn’t waste any time in jumping off the boat and once our snorkels were secured we went on the search for sharks.

Gem had a nightmare with her snorkel, and after seeing her panic a little I assumed she was just being soft and told her to pull herself together. I had my comeuppance in the end though, as I swapped snorkels with her in an attempt to prove my point and I nearly drowned. That’ll teach me!

After apologising profusely and returning to the boat to swap equipment, we headed out once again, looking for the white tip sharks that frequent this area. As soon as we spotted one I was overly excited. This was my holy grail here just as wild monkeys were in Costa Rica. I swam my fastest in a futile attempt to keep up with the shark. They are scary creatures, but so very majestic. I was just grateful they weren’t these sharks.

We then went to Fish Point. It may come as a shock to some but this place was full of fish, and I mean FULL of fish.

Turtle Point was next, and we spotted one poor little bleeder on the seabed, moving slowly as they do. The turtle probably didn’t have a clue about the dozens of tourists pointing their GoPro towards it’s protective shell, but it still somehow felt a bit wrong.

We got dropped off for lunch at Fisherman’s Village. We didn’t realise this and ended up slightly over budget because we had banked on having lunch at our hotel and using our free lunch voucher. Gemma told me to keep the receipt, so I did, but I thought it was a long shot.

Romantic Bay is the next stop, followed by the Lighthouse. Both are pretty and good for extravagantly coloured fish. The water was so clear and we could see for what seemed like miles.

Snorkelling over, we returned to the hotel and asked for a refund for lunch. It worked! A nice bonus. That afternoon we took a walk to Long Beach, which is only 10 minutes away and is the more “party” side of the island.

When we arrived we were glad that we had chosen to stay on Coral Bay. The sand isn’t as clean on Long Beach, and space is limited. On the plus side we bought a snorkel for cheap and I stocked up on beers as they are only 7RM (1GBP) a beer on this side, and 10RM per beer on our side. After a few steady ones we both needed sleep, I think we had a fair amount of sun on our snorkelling trip.

Wearing a GoPro chest harness makes you look daft while you’re wearing it, and for 3 days afterwards!

The next day my shark obsession dictated our plans. We hired a water taxi to take us Shark Point with the condition that he stick around so that we have a boat to return to if necessary. The driver agreed but of course as soon as we were in the water he sped off saying he would be back shortly. Cheers. To add insult to injury my mask wasn’t securing to my face properly. As if things couldn’t get any worse when we finally gathered ourselves and went looking for sharks we realised that the visibility was less than half of what it was the day before. It became clear after 30 minutes that we wouldn’t be able to find any sharks so we gave it up as a bad job and the wandering taxi driver eventually returned and brought us back to Coral Bay.

Our evening meal was at a beach diner that had no electricity due to a dodgy generator. That’s beach life I suppose! The food was nice and reasonable priced for these islands. We caught some live music at Crocodile Rock, which is a Bohemian style café on the beach. It’s a cool place but don’t use the loo, it’s half a mile into the jungle behind! We managed to end up back at Gem Internet Café sipping some beers until the early hours once again, and we formed a nice bond with the owners and their son, Joshua.

Our final day in paradise. Mixed emotions! After breakfast we grabbed our snorkel gear and marched across the beach to the Shari-La hotel, on the other side of which is a private bay where we had heard you could see rays. It didn’t take us long to spot one, and the cute little fella was happily cruising along until a young boy decided to scream in it’s face and point to it, almost touching it. Kids will be kids, but Gem and I were expecting the parents to do something. No such luck. Is it acceptable to clip other people’s kids round the ears? It should be…
Around lunchtime we opted to grab a canoe, they’re for hire everywhere here. Unfortunately our lack of co-ordination meant it was very difficult to steer the damn thing in a straight line, and it took us a long time to get almost nowhere. We had grand plans but ended up only doing half of our initial route, stopping at one point on a private beach all to ourselves.
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After some rice and vegetables washed down with beer we had to retire to bed as our transfer left the island at 8.30am the next day. Not only did this mark the end of our holiday but our first visit to the UK for over a year!
We sailed to the mainland and flew back to the UK via Vietnam, worked out really cheap that way. Check the video out below to see our entire Malaysian trip!
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